Another day another piece of sushi...

So, I've just finished Week 6 of sushi school. I realize that I haven't really given any more than the first couple days experience to everyone... Sorry for that, but there's so much information, that my head is kinda still spinning, and it's not over.

Here are a couple things of importance that I've learned.

1) I suck. Really, I've got a great brain for food, but my hands aren't precise, and in a precision-centered world like sushi, there's no iffs ands or buts about being able to do it or not. I've been rolling for a month now, and I still end up with "hot dogs" that aren't even. It sucks. I suck. But I'm still learning some very important information here.

2) Rice isn't my friend. A continuation of the above. I don't know if it's because my hands are naturally on the warm side, but even with copious amounts of temizu (hand lubricating vinegar water), I can't get the rice not to stick everywhere. I'm just so frustrated at this... Ugh.

3) Fish must be respected. While there are general principles to remember here, all fish are different and need to be fabricated differently. Head off, guts out... I know that unless I actually go to work for a sushi/japanese restaurant after this course, I probably won't retain most of the knowledge here. It's really a use it or lose it kind of proposition. Perhaps I need to make sure to keep my skills up by practicing or opening up a sushi catering company.

4) The customer's life is in my hands. Sanitize sanitize sanitize... I must make sure that my nails are cut down and clean, that my hand towel is regularly rinsed and bleached... that there is enough fresh temizu around. Then, I have to remember to pre-prep all the fish, meaning that I have to salt and vinegar marinate everything to draw out parasites and kill everything on it. To not do so would literally be taking my customers lives into my hands. Also... NEVER eat river fish raw. They're literally filled with parasites. Just don't do it. EVER. The one exception is salmon, however, even that is dangerous unless you deep freeze it first to kill everything in it. Current US regulation is that salmon must be frozen for 1 week (!) in a commercial (not home) freezer before being served as sushi or sashimi.


Well, boys and girls, I'm off to cook more rice (eek) to practice some more hot dog... er... roll making techniques.

Happy cooking!

Day... er.... Wait a minute.

Ok, I was originally planning on doing a daily run of events from Sushi School for everyone. I realize that there's so much to cover and so much for me to learn, that it'd be exhaustive for me to be able to to that. As it is, I'm sitting here at 7AM about to run out the door, about to write about Day 3, and it's already the Monday after that, or Day 6. I'll try to go over some of the more important things in detail, but in the meantime, I'm going to have to summarize and gloss over quite a bit. There's a LOT to cover!

Have a great week, guys, and Happy Cooking, as always.

Day 2 -- Deep Basics, Flavor, Rice, Stock

Day 2.

I walk in knowing from the syllabus that we're covering the basics of Japanese cuisine today. I made sure to leave as much of my preconceived notions as I could at home, since we're covering things that any person who grew up in Japan knows at least something about. Wanting to get the most out of the course, and to learn a specific "philosophy," I chose to go in and forget that I know these things.

6 Flavors:
There are six basic flavoring ingredients in Japanese cuisine.

Sake, Mirin, Vinegar, Sugar, Salt, Soy Sauce

I'm not going into any real details on any one of these ingredients, since each one of them can and have merited entire treatises on them. I will just go into the basics that I think should be mentioned, and that were imparted to me.

Sake:

Sake is brewed from Rice and Rice Mold, and left to ferment for a period of 30-90 days depending on the method being used. Regardless, it falls under the category of "soft liquor" since the alcohol content is usually between 16 and 18%.

Junmai Shu is made of only rice and mold, and is considered more refined. Because of the natural state it is in, it needs to be fermented for 80-90 days.

Jozo Shu is made of the same ingredients as above, but alcohol is added to the fermentation tank to speed the process. The sake made this way is ready in 30-40 days.

Most mass produced sake, thus is Jozo Shu, since it can be made more quickly. When drinking sake, Jozo Shu types (e.g. Sho Chiku Bai, Gekkeikan, Ozeki, and other popular brands), heat the sake to let the artificial alcohol to "burn off." Junmai Shu, on the other hand, can be tasted at room temperature.

Mirin:

Mirin is brewed the exactly same way as sake is, but instead of regular rice, sweet/mochi rice is used. The higher starch content in the rice makes a rather sweet liquor. Mirin is almost used exclusively for cooking and is rarely drunk. Like sake, there is a Jozo and Junmai distinction.

Vinegar:

Japanese vinegar is rice vinegar. Originally (and still today, although rarer), it was made from fermenting sake lees left from liquor making procedures. Most often, rice and mold are combined and a starter culture of acetobacter is added to convert the alcohol into vingegar.

Rice vinegar tends to be milder than white vinegar, and is not as sharp as some other vinegars.

Sugar:

Cane sugar that we're used to in the US and Europe is 30% sweeter than Japanese sugar, meaning that Japanese recipes giving measurements of sugar are harder to adjust. Side Note: So is THAT why the ubiquitous Teriyaki Chicken in a Japanese-American restaurant is so darn sweet? Just food for thought.

Salt:

Knowing the different sodium levels of salt is an important factor in cooking healthy food for your customers. Also, depending on where a salt comes from, it the mineral components differ and may contribute to a change in flavor.

Table salt: 99.98% Sodium. While cheap, there is no benefit from using this salt, since it is just sodium, and has a sharp flavor, from the iodine being added in.

Kosher salt: 99.8% Salt. Larger flakes means that less actual salt is needed when used as a table side condiment.

Sea Salt: 98% Sodium. The almost 2% difference between table and sea salts may seem small, but on the palate, it does make a difference. Also, the added minerals in sea salt makes it more "flavorful." Depending on where the salt comes from, these minerals may be different, and will give the salt a different color and or flavor.

Soy Sauce/ Shoyu:

There are four basic types of Shoyu that is used in the Japanese kitchen. Most of us here think of shoyu and immediately think of Kikkoman... yup, it's a brand, but that's just Dark Shoyu.

Dark Shoyu - used for everyday seasoning

Light Colored Shoyu - used to flavor soups and other applications where color change needs to be prevented, such as in Japanese omelets.

*Note: Light Colored Shoyu is much saltier than Dark Shoyu... You use less which further prevents color changes

Tamari - not to be confused with the sauce made by the brand called Tamari. Tamari has extra ingredients added during the brewing process, and is thicker than regular shoyu. Also, it has a slightly molasses like flavor, so is often used in making teriyaki, and unagi sauces.

White Shoyu - almost never used in a home setting. This is what is used in Kyoto to season Sui-mono or clear soups. It is similar to Light Colored shoyu, but is even lighter in color.

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Rice

This is really an important chapter when you're talking about sushi school. For all intents and purposes, I'm only going to be talking about Japanese rice, which is medium-short, or short grain. California makes great Japanese style rices which can be used here. I'm not going to go into all of it, or post the video of sensei actually showing how to do it, but I will give you the basic idea. Actually, on second thought, I will take a vid of how it's done and post my own version.

One thing to note. The ratio of water to rice depends on a number of factors, not the least of which is whether the rice is "new crop" or "old crop." New Crop rice becomes available around mid-November. Because it is "new" it has more natural moisture in the grains. 3%, to be exact. Obviously, if you're using new rice, you need less water than with old rice. FYI, new rice becomes old rice around February/March, so adjust back accordingly.

While a gas cooker, or a cast iron rice pot over a raging flame is ideal, I'm going to give measurement ratios for an electric cooker. Never cook Japanese rice in an open pot like pasta or cous-cous. This is steamed rice, and it needs ample time in an enclosed environment to rest and absorb the moisture.

Wash the rice for 1-3 minutes in a tub. There should be enough water to moisten the rice well. Rinse rice several times until the rinse water is clear. Place rice into a colander or strainer, and let sit a minimum of 20 minutes, preferably 30. Given that rice is a dried vegetable, it needs to reconstitute with moisture before cooking much like dried mushrooms and legumes.

Measure out approximately 1.25 times the amount of rice in water, add to the rice cooker with your washed rice, and turn the switch on. The cooking time should be a total of 45 minutes. That is, 20 to cook, and 25 to steam once the machine is off. In a fancier rice cooker, this step is actually taken into account, but it doesn't hurt to let it sit an extra couple minutes to make sure the rice is steamed thoroughly. Set a timer, and go with that, rather than the beeps of your fancy rice cooker. That works just fine. Rice comes out consistently good.

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Stock, or Dashi

The basis of many Japanese dishes and soups is Japanese stock or Dashi. Unlike Western stocks, dashi doesn't take too long to make. It is the first pressing or Ichiban Dashi that I will be giving directions for.

Put one gallon (adjust to needs) of water in a pot over medium heat. Add a 5-inch square piece of Kombu (kelp). Slowly bring the pot to a boil. You want the process to take at least 10 minutes to extract the flavor from the kombu. At the point that the water has come to a full boil, remove the kombu, add a half cup of cold water to lower the temperature slightly, and add a heaping handful of bonito flakes to the pot. Immediately turn off the heat and let sit. When all the bonito flakes have sunk to the bottom of the pot, your dashi is ready to strain and be used. Line a strainer with paper towels, and carefully strain the dashi. This is the primary dashi that you will be using for many things.

You can take the used bonito flakes and kombu and reuse them for a weaker dashi called secondary or niban dashi. This is often used to simmer vegetables, or for miso soup in restaurants that need the primary dashi for more refined dishes.

There's a lot that I'm not necessarily covering, but that's day 2 for you guys. As you can see, the pace is a tad breakneck, and I'm sure glad that I do have the advantage of knowing some (very little, really) of these things coming into the class.

Happy Cooking!

First Day at Sushi School... Itadaki Masu

For those of you in the know, I signed up with a school here in LA for a two month program to get a certification as a sushi chef. Honestly, I don't know what I'm going to do with the certification. But since my loss of my dear husband David in the past year, I've been floundering. This at least gives me some sense of direction and accountability for my life. Maybe I'll go into catering, or eventually open a place... or just do what I've been sort of doing and go into culinary consulting of some sort. Regardless, I'm excited to have a purpose for the next little while, and I plan on making the most of it.

Why sushi? I think the best reason I have here is that I'm part Japanese, and I wanted to learn something that would perpetuate some aspect of my "native" culture. Yes, I speak Japanese, and can follow a cookbook, but the skill set is very different from a French/Euro-centric cooking set which I have a fair amount of hands on skill in. Yes, the skills are analogous (a cube cut is a cube cut the world around), but often the tools and methodology are different. Just look at traditional Japanese knives. Many are single-edged and thus handed (meaning my pocketbook screamed when I learned of the surcharge for lefty knives). I have several Japanese knives that I owned before starting school and purchasing the knife kit they recommend. I have a small deba (fish cleaver), an usuba (vegetable knife), and a yanagiba (sashimi sliver), but never learned how to properly handle them. Don't get me wrong, I have decent knife skills with "Western style" knives (gyu-to/French chef's, for example), but the feeling is completely different when cutting something with a double edged versus a single edged knife. The best way I can describe it is that while a standard double edged knife goes "straight" into the product being cut, a single edged knife feels like it "curves" into the product... way weird if you're used to the one over the other. Right here alone was a reason I wanted to learn.

Ok, onto my first actual day of school. I got up early (6:30AM!) and got dressed in my uniform, picked up my knife kit, and trekked down the street while it was still semi dark out. Good thing I left early. Not being used to morning traffic, I didn't realize it would take me as long to go the couple, three miles to the school. Then I didn't realize that the gate to the lot was automated, and I was circling like a dumbass waiting for someone to call me back to give me directions on how to get into the lot (drive up... the sensor will open the gate... duh). But all things said, I got there, and was only several minutes late... Housekeeping was going on, and nothing had started yet.

After the obligatory filling out of paperwork and limitation of liability forms and such, the chef/instructor (who will be referred to from here on out as "Sensei" which is the Japanese term for teacher) gave us an overview of his background, and why he's teaching the class. The reason he wants to do this is because he feels that he wants to pass along the skills that he learned to the next generation. Great!

We were informed of the way the course is set up, and wow, it's fast paced! We're apparently covering all the basics of non-sushi Japanese cooking in 12 days. Of course, we're expected to study and practice on our own time, and to hone our skills. Oh, and we were also asked, if we could, to show up on Saturday to help the school cater an event for 800 people. Whoa! We won't be cooking, but may be asked to help prep basic things and to do some grunt work around the exhibition. I'll definitely have to keep that one in mind.

Onto the kitchen. Today was "basic knife skills." Sensei started out with a potato and showed us how to julienne it by hand. Gorgeous movement. We each got a potato, and were told to do the cuts. I guess 30 plus years of experience makes it look easier than it actually is. I got through this one without too much trouble. I know that I need to get better at making the cuts more uniform, but this wasn't too horrible. Nothing I can't do at home with a couple taters and some time. Then onto a couple other cuts like "half moon" cuts and so on so forth. Each time, we were shown once, and then told to do it. When needed Sensei and his assistant would come over to correct us and guide us in the right way. Still, so far, so good. Stuff that I can do but just need to practice to perfect... then we're asked to do a Katsura-muki. What? That on the first day??? Now I'm feeling inadequate. A kasura-muki is when you take a relatively cylindrical vegetable and make a continuous peel of it which is evenly paper-thin. Suffice it to say that I sucked hardcore on this one. I just kept on angling the knife wrong and just didn't seem like I was getting anywhere on this one. Ugh.

Well, that was day 1. Sensei made dishes out of all the veggies we sliced and we all ate in the cafeteria outside the kitchen and then cleaned up before going home.

Yes, I bought potatoes to practice on.

One thing that was brought up during family lunch really touched me. The idea of food to the Japanese given to us by someone whose worked with it all his life. Sensei explained that the term "Itadaki Masu," said like bon apetit before a meal in Japan, refers to the idea that no matter what one eats, that it has to die for us to be able to consume it. It is with the idea of gratitude that he translated "Itadaki Masu" as "thank you for letting me partake of your life." Even though I speak the language and know the culture, I never thought of it this way. I thought this was a simple and beautiful way of looking at things and also one that spoke to the level of respect on needs when eating and especially handling food.

So, in this new quest of knowledge of mine, I start by saying "Itadaki Masu" to all the knowledge and skill that will be shown to me. I hope I can remember to keep the spirit of respect to be worthy.

Happy Cooking and Eating!

Veggies for soups and stews...

It's started getting a little nippy at night here in LA of late. Given the rapid change in seasons this year, I caught a hell of a cold over the past week, and I'm now finally getting over it. Given that I was congested and generally miserable all week, I ate a lot of soups and stews that go down easy and just warm you up from the inside.

I made a big batch (7-qts) of home-made chicken stock as a base, (easy... get a whole chicken or family pack of wings, wash, cover with cold water, add couple each carrots and celery, a whole onion and simmer for a couple/several hours until the bones even fall apart, strain and reserve) and have been making soups and soups out of it for a while. Which got me to thinking... is there a good way of making sure that the veggies don't turn into mush while making a good and hearty slow cooked meal?

The answer is absolutely yes. Just because you let a stew or soup simmer for a couple hours to get the flavors together doesn't mean that you have to suffer potatoes and carrots that have no backbone left. The secret is remarkably simple... Start with cold water/stock, and take at least 10 minutes to bring it to a simmer. What? That's it??? Yes. Let me repeat. SLOWLY bring the pot up to a simmer.

The scientific reasoning for this, for those of you who are into that sort of thing (yes, I have been known to be a geek from time to time), is that the texture of cooked vegetables have everything to do with how a substance in them called pectin is handled. Pectin, by the way in its pure form, is the substance used to gel jams and jellies. It's a naturally occurring sugar-substance that is present in all fruits and vegetables in various concentrations. If you slowly bring the temperature of the veggies up as opposed to "shocking" them directly in boiling water, the pectin has a chance to "set up" thus protecting the integrity of the cellular structures. Once they've been tempered thus, you can cook the veggies for a long time while still retaining a crisp texture. Depending on what you like, you can adjust the tempering process to get varied results. If you want veggies that have just a slight crunch, just follow the "bring to simmer over 10 minutes guideline), if you want them really crunchy take longer... Of course, the reverse applies too, so in certain cases where you want your veggies to turn into mush (for bisques and other pureed applications, for example), you want to have the water at a boil before adding the veggies.

See, now you can have a soup or stew with a restaurant type mouth feel, and you won't have to worry about everything turning into mush... Oh, and if you're adding broccoli or cauliflower (or anything that "falls apart"), make sure that you blanch and shock them to keep their color, and add them at the very end of cooking after you take the soup/stew off the heat. They'll remain intact, and won't throw florets all over the place.

Eggs done right.

I was thinking the other day that I rarely, if ever, really enjoy eatings eggs out. Granted, unless I'm on vacation (which I recently was in Hawai'i -- more on that in a later post), I just don't go to the kind of place that would take the time to serve me eggs the way I like 'em. Don't get me wrong, I'm not necessarily knocking all the fine diners and breakfast spots out there. I just like my eggs (especially scrambled) done a particular way, and I prefer to forgo the eggs while out in favor of something more... healthy... how's that?

So without further ado, here are some tips on egg cookery.

Scrambled
First and foremost, learn to be patient. The pan should never, and I mean, never be on anything other than LOW heat. That's right, boys and girls, the perfect scrambled egg is one where the egg coagulates at a very slow pace. I've been know to spend 30 minutes or more sometimes on a batch of eggs for brunch.

Take your eggs and beat them. Now melt a pat of butter in a pan set on low heat, and add the eggs. Every so often, stir the eggs with a spatula. The pan should be low enough that there should be almost no noticeable coagulation in a pan of three eggs for over 10 minutes. Don't over stir either. You want large fluffy curds here. Once the eggs start to set up, add some cream or milk to the pan to make them even more smooth. Stir until almost set, then remove to a plate.

Keeping the eggs slightly runny is important here. Remember the old adage: eggs that are done in the pan are overdone on the plate.

As much as it's a pain in the bum to go through the trouble, you'll be rewarded with the most sublime scrambled eggs you've ever tried. And what's interesting is that they taste more "eggy" than scrambled eggs cooked too quickly.

Season the eggs to taste, and add some grated parmesan or even better, truffle bits (truffle oil works great too), for your decadent treat.

variation:
There's one version that cooks up really nicely if you want even more "egg" taste. I saw this technique a couple years back in a cooking magazine (no, I don't remember).

Using the same heat setting as above, add the eggs without beating them into the pan. You want to break the yolks and start mixing once the whites have started to set up. The texture is not as smooth as the original method, but it's got a nice and interesting taste. Try it sometime to change up your scramble game.

Fried Eggs

So, why does one need to be told how to fry an egg? Because there are a couple different ways to do it! And yes, there's even technique involved.

First things first. True "fried eggs" are just that... they're fried in oil, rather than heated in a pan with little or no grease. For a truly decadent experience, try rendering an in or two of lard and/or bacon fat in a pan, bring it up to temperature, and dropping a couple eggs straight from their shells into them. It's quick, and oh so tasty. At the point in which the eggs are immersed in the oil, they naturally cook more like an egg that's been flipped over so both sides are cooked. Again, with this kind of egg, don't overdo it. The point is to be able to sop up the yolk with a piece of bread (buttered rye for me please).

Wanna be a "fried egg" geek? Try this: Use a circle mold (or a tuna can with both ends cut off) to make perfectly round eggs. Better yet, if you're entertaining, take the time to not only use the mold, separate the yolk from the white, and gently place the yolk directly on the center of the egg once the whites are already starting to set. Beautiful!

Again, even with the standard pan fried egg, you want the pan to be on low heat. That way the egg has time to cook to the right consistency.

variation
How about this Japanese technique for pan fried egg? Take the egg and slowly pour it into a pan on low heat (get out that circle mold again!) then add a couple tablespoons of water in the pan, and put lid on it. This is a technique called steam frying. You'll end up with a much softer egg white with this method.

Hard...soft...semi...Boiled Eggs

Boiled eggs... We all have different tastes here for doneness, but here's a general guideline. Add eggs to a pot of cold water with about an inch or so water to cover. Bring to a boil and then remove from heat.

Leave the eggs in for 10-11 minutes, you'll get a perfect hard boiled egg.

Going down from there you can gauge the consistency of the egg you want. I like mine with a little more give in the yolk, so I usually take mine out around 7 minutes. Just take a bunch of eggs and try this. It's fun. You can get anything from a barely cooked egg all the way to a hard boiled with the yolk uniformly yellow. Just watch a clock or timer, and pull out the eggs after 5 minutes in one to two minute intervals, and then line them up, peel them after rinsing in cold water, and see what you like best.

Here's a tip on getting the yolk centered. Constantly roll the eggs back and forth while they're cooking with a spatula. This'll keep the yolks nice and centered... a must for Deviled eggs! Ok, even I don't bother with that. Get out a small glass (shot glass anyone), and just put it in the pot. Place egg, point side up, and voila! Yolks that are centered.

Of course there's much more in egg land, and I'm sure I will eventually write an entire entry on the omelet alone, but for the time being, hope your egg cooking skills will be better.

Since I actually made all three kinds of eggs simultaneously to write this entry... what did I do with them? Why make an Egg Egg Egg and Cheese Sandwich.


Egg Egg Egg and Cheese Sandwich

Per Sandwich

1 Croissant

1 boiled egg
1 fried egg
2 scrambled eggs (optional drizzle at end with truffle oil)

Cheese -- can be anything you like.
I used grated parmesan, aged white cheddar, and 5 year-old gouda for mine.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Once you have all three kinds of eggs, open up a toasted croissant, add the cheese (melt if desired during toasting), top with the eggs, salt and pepper to taste, and then chomp in. This is a wonderful way of tasting all the different textures and flavors that the eggs have in one dish. It's a bit messy (fried egg runs all over), but it's GOOD!

Happy Cooking and Eating!

A Summer Menu ~ Dualities

I have to say that I haven't cooked a large production meal in a while. Since Zack-I my roommate was leaving for Burning Man on Sunday, I thought I'd make a nice meal at home for him and his sister, and another foodie friend of ours. I wanted the menu to be interesting, yet be something that very much said "summer." Each of the dishes had one key ingredient used two ways. Here's my menu:

From the Garden:

"Tomayto/Tomahto Caprese Tartlet" of fresh and confit tomato served alogside a Chilled Shot of Heirloom Tomato, Cucumber, and Spice Gazpacho


From the Ocean:

Scallop Carpaccio with cedar smoked white peach and yuzu ponzu. Complimented by Seared Scallop wrapped in guanciale and stuffed with summer black truffles.

From the Farm:

Lamb chop served with summer fig and red wine compote, Lamb Shank braised in red wine and porcinis. Both accompanied by saffron cous-cous.

Something Sweet:

Cremes Brulees -- toasted sesame seed, and dragonfruit


The menu was a success, and everyone seemed to love it. I even got Zack-I who normally doesn't do raw seafood not only to try the scallop carpaccio, he actually even liked it. All in all a great meal for all of us.

Happy Cooking!

Heavenly Dumplings at Din Tai Fung

Din Tai Fung: 4.5/5

I've been hearing about Din Tai Fung in Arcadia for years now. Yes, this is the US outlet of the world renowned (one of the top 10 restaurants in the world according to the New York Times!) Taiwanese dumpling house. For whatever reason, I just never bothered going. I decided the other day to try running in for lunch. I knew that they're always busy, but I wasn't prepared for the extent of that business for Sunday lunch. Given that I was there to quickly grab a bite with Puppy before dropping him off at High End Virgin Grain Food Emporium, we didn't have the requisite hour and a half (!) wait. I gave up but gained a new-found desire, no, NEED, to eat here. If the wait's that long, I just had to see how worth it it was.

Fast forward a day to Monday. I got us up earlier and drove back out 18 miles to sample some dumplings. I went abso-effin-lutely determined to get in. Whatchya know? Even on a Monday, there was a wait. I got a ticket (number 121) and they were still calling the lower 80s. Oy! But since Puppy had the day off and we didn't have anywhere to be, we sucked it up and waited. Besides, I wasn't about to go and be defeated two days in a row. One thing to note here: Din Tai Fung is all about getting you in and out. While you're in line, you get a fill in menu kind of like a sushi card. You fill in the things you want while you wait, and they bring things as they are ready. Great for speed, not too great if you want certain things in a certain order (like we wanted our soup as an appetizer -- it came last).

Our order was the following:

Juicy Pork Dumplings (Xiaolongbao)
Juicy Pork and Crab Dumplings
Vegetarian Dumplings
Shrimp Fried Rice
Shrimp and Pork Won Ton Soup.
2 X Coke


We sit down, and the waitress quickly checks our order sheet. Withing 2 minutes, the first steamer of dumplings (pork and crab) arrive. I smell... I drool... then I pick one up ever so gingerly so as not to break the dough... dip it into the black vinegar, top with shaved ginger and then put in on a spoon... carefully slowly break the dough with my teeth, and then suck up the soup in the dumpling. I'm getting aroused at this point, it's so good. Then I just plop the rest in my mouth and chew. Wow! That's good. Right there, first dumpling, I already know why there's that line here.

Xiaolongbao. Soup Dumplings. Definitely one of those things that have a place in my heart. When I was a teenager and sick, my grandfather used to sneak me out of the hospital once a week to take me to polish off a platter of these soup filled delights. And these here are the best, hands down, that I've gotten here in the US. Not that there are that many places that actually offer them.

The regular pork ones were actually better in my opinion than the crab ones. It was just more meaty and "clean" if that makes sense. The fried rice was a great serving for two or three to share, and the soup was a light chicken broth filled with eight or so giant shrimp and pork dumplings that were heavenly once you got over burning your tongue on them.

The only miss here was the vegetarian dumplings. It was filled with a combination of things that was at once bland, but also had a mealy texture. It was edible, but I won't be ordering that one again.


All in all this was an amazing experience. Definitely worth the wait... The best part here is how inexpensive it is. After eating all that, the bill came up to less than $40. Really, not that bad considering that every dumpling order is for 10 pieces, and the most expensive one, the crab and pork dumplings come in at $8.50. You've heard rumors about Din Tai Fung... yes, they're all true. Don't think. Just go.

Happy Eating!

Canele in Atwater Village... the verdict is in...

Canele: 2.5/5 Stars

I love a great neighborhood restaurant. And I definitely love supporting them. Since I live in the Atwater area, I've gone to Canele (Mediterranean Cuisine) four times now over the past several months. While there are great things about it, I still have some reservations on the consistency of the food.

Let's start though, with the good here. I love the space and concept. The idea of a restaurant catering to the community with a (guess what?) communal table and a no reservation policy really does jive with me. I don't want to go to the restaurant down the street and not be able to get a table because some Westside snob decided to throw their name around to facilitate a last minute res for herself and 20 of her closest friends. Ok, I know I'm exaggerating, but, hey... At Canele, everyone's equal. If there isn't a table, you can make one of two choices: a) wait like a normal person, or b) choose to leave and go somewhere else. Pretty simple and democratic. No problem.

In terms of the food, I have to give them credit for doing fish well. Both times I've had fish here (trout once, branzino another time), it's been served whole (head and all) and been lightly but deftfully seasoned and wonderful. Maybe it's the Japanese in me, but I'm definitely not one to be squeamish about fish staring me in the face, and in fact, I am the one who loves to poke at the cheek meat. I almost yelled to the couple sitting next to us at the communal table earlier, "no, give it to me!!!" when they sent back the beautiful branzino to be decapitated to better serve their morals or well, I guess, tastes. I say kudos to the Mediterranean restaurant that actually, gasp, serves fish like they do, gasp, in the Mediterranean.

I also love that despite the small scope of the menu (6-7 appetizers, and 8-10 entrees with daily specials), that the chef here does try some interesting ideas. One of the dishes that I've tried that fits this bill is a dish that was served last winter. It was lamb chops with a grapefruit sauce served with Israeli couscous. I honestly would never have though to pair lamb with grapefruit, but this was a decent dish if only for the novelty factor. I guess my problem was that once you got over the combination, it was boring after the third bite, and the couscous was totally lackluster. I'm imagining that the Israeli couscous was trying to emulate the texture of the individual juice sacs of the grapefruit.

The flan here, voted as LA's best by LA Magazine, does stand up. It's a sinful delicious, oozy blob of YUM. Save space for it. If you don't, just share one with the table. It's really THAT good. Oh yeah, not to make it and afterthought, but the other desserts I've tried, like the cheesecake, are good as well.

The nicest touch, and one that definitely screams "neighborhood restaurant" is the fact that you get a fresh two bite canele on your way out. What's a canele, you ask? It's a baked custard similar in taste to a flan or creme caramel, but much denser and chewier. Can't get the idea? Refer to the picture to your left. Mmmmmm... if their flan wasn't as good as it is, I would skip dessert altogether just 'cause of this.

Ok, onto the things I didn't like. As much as Canele does a great job with fish, I'm not a big fan of the way most other animals are prepared. I ordered the summer iteration of their rack of lamb today (herbed rack of lamb with eggplant and tomato ragout) and got a tepid and rubbery trio of chops instead. The flavors were ok... I mean, how do you screw up some good lamb with a mixed herb pesto, really? But the texture just said that they didn't care. Tepid and chewy (not a good thing here like with the canele) is not medium-rare in my book. We all know that most of the food that we eat in a restaurant is pre-prepped to some degree, but this felt like they just weren't trying with this one.

Pork chop... again, boring. It was definitely well brined, but it seems that whoever was at the oven reheating this chop... (no sear whatsoever here), forgot to reseason it. Bland and boring. Somewhat overcooked (aren't we glad it was brined?) No sauce to boot. Eh...

Look, I live in this neighborhood, and I love to support a good neighborhood restaurant. But if I'm in the mood for good Mediterranean food, give me that, ok? And while I'm willing to overlook quite a bit in terms of perfection, give me what I pay for. See, the big issue here is that for the dishes that aren't great, the price tag really seems high. Higher than usual high. The Cuban place down the street, with its rustic home cooking, I believe is a much better bang for your buck. Sure, you won't get fancy pretty food there, but the prices make you feel that it was worth more that it is.

Bottom line. If you go to Canele, which you should, order a fish dish (and PLEASE don't let me catch you getting it guillotined), and get the flan with a cup of coffee to wash it down with. If you do that, you'll be happy since the fish dishes tend to be less pricey than the pork, lamb, beef, or other land meat. You'll get more, it'll taste better, and you'll want to go back. And do sit at the communal table. Serious dates aside, what's better than eating good food in a neighborhood restaurant than being able to meet your neighbors while doing it? This is Canele at its best. You should go for it.

Happy Eating!

Random Recipe: A Tale of Two Oceans

I was showing Puppy around the best fish market around this area... a small Japanese owned family joint we'll call Tuna Queen... actually, it's Fish King. The fish is lovingly showcased, and you can get quite a bit of lovely things here. I left the store with two Chesapeake Bay Soft-Shell Crabs, and half a pound of jumbo Pacific Scallops.


Fish King
722 N Glendale Ave
Glendale, CA
91206-2198

Phone: (818) 244-2161


Here's what I did with them:

A Tale of Two Oceans:

Serves 2


Atlantic:

Soft Shell Crabs with Lemon Butter

2 Soft-Shell Crabs, cleaned
Oil for cooking
Salt and Pepper
Juice and Zest of one lemon
2 TblS unsalted Butter (use good higher fat Euro butter)
2 Tbls Chopped Green Onion/Chives/Negi (Japanese onion)

Heat a pan over medium heat for several minutes until oil goes in easily. When oil is at a slight smoke, place soft shells top side down in the pan. Note: If you're doubling the recipe, remember to cook no more than two soft shells per 10-inch pan.
Cook for 2 minutes on the first side, then flip over and add butter and baste with the melted butter (pour over the exposed side with a spoon) another minute or two until just firm. Plate and then add in the lemon juice and zest. Swirl and pour over the crabs and top with chopped green onions.

Pacific:

Seared Jumbo Scallops with White Wine Chantrelle Sauce

1/2 Pound jumbo Sea Scallops

Sauce:

1/2 Cup White Wine
1/2 Cup Chicken Stock
3 Oz. Chantrelle Mushrooms, sliced in half
2 TblS Shiso Butter (see the recipe for the steak with French-Japanese sauce duo)
salt and pepper
starch and water as needed

Make the sauce: Reduce the Chicken Stock in a sauce pot to a 1/4. Saute the chantrelles in butter in a skillet until browned and tender, about 8-10 minutes. Add the reduced stock to the chantrelles and then monte with the shiso butter. Salt and pepper to taste. If needed thicken with the starch and water.

Cook the scallops:

Heat a pan on medium heat until hot. Salt and pepper the scallops and then cook 2-3 minutes on each side, until nicely seared and done.

Plate with the sauce.

I served this dish with whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes.

Happy Cooking!

Random Recipe: Rib-eye Steak with French-Japanese Sauce Duo

I was craving steak for some reason today. I tend not to eat too much beef on a regular basis. Not that I have anything against it, but I tend to eat more chicken and pork than beef. But I did get my steak craving today. I decided while I was at it the I should make something interesting and different. Mmmm this one's good!


Rib-eye Steak with French-Japanese Sauce Duo and Mushrooms

Serves 2:

1 lb. Rib-eye steak, 1.5-2 inches thick, cut into half to make 2 steaks

1.5 cups assorted sliced mushrooms
3 cloves garlic
2 TBls Unsalted Butter
Olive Oil

Soy Demi:

1/4 cup Soy sauce
1/4 cup Sake
1 ts veal Demi-glace
1/2 ts sugar

Shiso pepper butter:

1/2 stick unsalted Butter
2-3 Shiso leaves, chiffonade
Coarse ground pepper


Saute Mushrooms:

Slice the mushrooms into thin slices while heating a pan over medium heat. Add olive oil and butter with half the garlic, when the butter is melted, add half the mushrooms in a single layer and let sear for 2 minutes. Turn over and cook until all the mushrooms are nicely browned and slightly crispy. Repeat with the remaining mushrooms and set aside. This step can be done up to two hours before Service.

Make Shiso Pepper Butter:

Combine softened butter with the shiso and pepper. Set aside.

Make Sauce:
Combine the ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat. Reduce slightly. Set aside.

Cook steak:

Remove steak from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking, and bring up to room temperature.

Heat a pan over medium heat until oil slides into the pan easily. Add in the steak and sear 3 minutes on the first side. Salt and pepper the steak. Flip and sear another 3 minutes. Then sear the sides 1-2 minutes each until nicely browned all over. Return the steak to the pan on the first side and then Cook 1 minute. Add in a pat of butter into the pan. Baste the exposed side with the hot butter for 1-2 minutes. The steak should be a nice medium-rare. Remove and put on a cooling rack, cover lightly with foil and let rest 5-10 minutes.

Reheat the sauce and mushrooms, then make whatever sides you need here -- I sauteed some pre-blanched shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), and had rice cooking in the rice cooker.

Place rice or starch on the plate, arrange the veg on the plate, and then top the starch with the steak, add the soy demi sauce, top with the shiso butter, then top the steak with the mushrooms.

Mmmm... yum!

Happy Cooking!

Macrobiotic Eating at M. Cafe de Chaya

My model sister (hello, size -2) and her mate, Brazilian Tatoo Guy asked me out to lunch today. Given that I'm in Atwater Village, and they're in Westwood/Sawtelle, we decided to meet up somewhere in the middle at M. Cafe de Chaya at La Brea and Melrose. Of course, they're the healthy people, so they chose the place, since I didn't know any veggie/vegan/macro/raw/etc. kind of place in my area (ok, so I do, but I didn't want to go). Given that I've heard some amazing things about the food at both Chaya Brasserie and Chaya Venice, I thought this might be interesting. Since puppy-white-boy had the day off from his butchering job, I took him along. I do admit though, I did tell him to take a look at the menu on the website before we went just to make sure that he could find something that was appetizing sounding -- while puppy-white boy is making huge strides on his palate (he'll try just about anything without complaint), he's just not used to the whole vegie-macro-designer-sprout-model diet, so I thought I'd make sure he was ok with it all.

Basically, the mantra at M. Cafe is:
M Café de Chaya introduces Contemporary Macrobiotic Cuisine — featuring balanced, nutritious, creative cooking which can be enjoyed daily by everyone, not just vegetarians or people with dietary restrictions. Building on the foundation of Michio Kushi, our chefs prepare each item fresh daily, using only the finest ingredients without any refined sugars, eggs, dairy, red meat or poultry.

Not exactly Motor City food fare like Puppy's used to.

We get there, and yes, it's a cafe... Order at a counter (most of the food is pre-prepped and wrapped for easy egress), and if you can, sit down and eat once they plate the food for you. I got a Falafel and Hummus wrap with a side of Sesame Soba noodles, and puppy-white-boy got the panini provencale with a side of Chickpeas with Red Rice (I ordered that when I was told that the sandwich came with a side), we both had a couple OJ's, and I had an extra side of Spicy Tuna Rolls. With tip, it's a whopping $40. This food might be designery and healthy, but it sure ain't cheap!!! Damn!

Food comes... it's ok. I mean, the ingredients are all great and it tasted fine. That being said, I don't know if it was the sticker shock, but I really didn't much think that the flavors were great. Like they were trying so hard to make something macrobiotic and good for you that they forgot that the food itself had to more tasty at the prices they're commanding. Don't get me wrong, I love falafel and hummus -- you'll even see a hummus recipe of my own in the archives -- but for close to $12 with a side, I've had much better variants for much less. Maybe it's because the falafel was cold? Who knows? There was just something missing.

The soba side that I had was fine. Bland, but fine. The same sesame oil tossed cold soba salad you can get anywhere at a chi-chi deli.

The Panini Provencale was ok. It's a panini of "seasonal grilled vegetables, arugula, balsamic vinaigrette, pesto aioli and creamy tofu cheese on our house baked focaccia, grilled hot & crisp to order." Asked to describe it, Puppy thinks for a long while, says, "Ok... it was flavorful, but just not satisfying." Aha! See I was right! He added, "the chickpea salad was much better."

I think my sister got it right. She ordered the Bi-Bim Bop Rice Bowl. A bowl of brown rice topped with pan fried tofu, veggies, sprouts, shiitakes, etc, and served with a Kotchu-Jyan-ish sweet and spicy miso sauce. I had a bite and I think if I were to go back, I would try this for myself instead.

If you're into the whole vegamacro thing, I guess this is good. Since I don't though, the fact that it's healthy doesn't give it the right to not satisfy me (I don't eat to get full, I eat to enjoy), especially when it costs as much as it does. Give me less healthy full flavored food any day of the week. I'd rather enjoy mo good food in moderation than live on this kind of food only. Don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating that one eat a cheeseburger for every meal, but don't get on my case if I choose to every now and then.

All in all... why does healthy food have to be so bleh? I went vegan for a week while my daughter was here (she's vegan), and I was able to come up with some pretty good stuff. Don't just call a place "macrobiotic" and set up a pretty space in a nice neighborhood and expect me to love it. Make real good food that also healthy? Great!!!

Yeah sure, I'll try this place again... if I'm stuck with a bunch of vegamacros and I don't know where else to go. Otherwise... give me my full flavored good food. And... I'll take the falafel from the Israeli take out down the street next time.

M. Cafe de Chaya
7119 Melrose Ave. (@ Detroit)
Los Angeles, CA 90046
323-525-0588


Happy Eating!

Yakitori... redux

Yakitori the other night was so good, I had to make it at home. My friend Rice-eating-lanscaper-guy complained several times that he was bored, so I invited him over for a little "dinner party" after dropping puppy-white-boy off at Metro to get to Virgin Grain High End Food Emporium.

Side note: I live in the Atwater Village/Silverlake area and have found that Super King (real name) supermarket on San Fernando just past the 2 Freeway is an excellent market. Got lots of ethnic things, a huge deli counter, and a butcher that has a lot of fresh things. To top that off, it's CHEAP!!!

Armed with a 5-lb whole chicken ($4.58) I get home and start dismembering it for parts. Breast... Breast... Skin... Thigh... Thigh (not THAI like the girl spelled it at Kokekokko on the sold out board).. Drum Stick... Drum Stick... Wing... Wing... Carcass. Whew! That was some work. Next time, just get pre-dismembered chicken and proceed directly to skewering.

Basically, the means here are simple. Cut up chicken into small parts and thread onto skewers.

I ended up this time making the following out of my whole dismembered chicken.

2 x Skin
4 X Breast
2 X Breast Tenders
4 X Thigh
2 X Negima (thigh and Japanese onion)
2 X Wings
2 X Thin Sliced Breast wrapped around Okra (stole that one from Kokekokko)
5 X Tsukune (chicken meat balls: Take 2 knives and chop the hell out of a chicken breast until it's "ground" Mix in one egg, 1/2 cup bread crumbs, salt, pepper, dried yuzu peel, 5-6 shiso leaves julienned and chopped, and mix with hands until it comes together -- put on skewer)

Not too bad for a single chicken. I didn't bother with the drum sticks today, so those went in the fridge for me to use for dinner another day.

The rest is simple... cook the skewers over charcoal until done. Better yet, put charcoal into a table-top grill (Konro -- look at pics, or MacGyver one out of a small terracotta pot and some wire mesh or a metal cooling rack or something) so you don't have to get your lazy ass up and you can be a host. Do them a few (of the same) at a time and enjoy a beer with friends. Place just a teensy bit of a condiment or two (my list below) just before serving and keep your guest(s) dazzled with your ability to put flavors together. Continue for several hours until all the chicken runs out.



Where's the recipe for my sauce, you ask? I took a page from the grill master at Kokekokko, and did a purely salt based menu. All you have to have is some good sea salt ready to pinch or grind over the chicken while it's cooking. The rest is in the condiments. I had:

Lemon
Pepper
Sansho Pepper
Shichimi Pepper
Yuzu Peel Powder
Grated Garlic
Grated Ginger
Wasabi
Yuzu Kosho
Butter

Most of these go on alone.

Lemon with sansho is one of my favorites. The acid blends well with the numbing flowery-ness of the sansho. The wings got a Lemon-shichimi combo which works well too.

Although not very "Japanese," a combo that really worked was Grated garlic, pepper (I used a 5-pepper blend here, but regular black would work fine), and butter. Sinful I tell ya, sinful!

The art of yakitori -- Little Tokyo

Server: Have you been here before?
Guest: No
Server: Do you know that we don't make sushi here?
Guest: Yes
Server: You know there is minimum order of 5 skewers per customer?
Guest: Yes
Server: Counter or table?
Guest: Counter
Server: Please wait for a minute.

This is the exchange that happens upon entering into Kokekokko, a small Yakitori restaurant on Central Ave. Yakitori is Japanese for "grilled chicken." Every part of the chicken is skewered and grilled to perfection over charcoal, and you eat sort of tapas-style, where a skewer or two show up every 10-15 minutes, and you wash it all down with a nice frosty beer.

Kokekokko is a very authentic experience if you remove the above exchange first -- if you're in Japan and enter a Yakitori joint, you know that they don't do sushi. The grill master here is a middle-aged Japanese guy (well, the whole staff is Japanese) who almost seems like he could have spent some time in the Yakuza once you hear him yelling at the staff... Definite Grill-Nazi potential here. But then again, once you're eating, he'll come over and ask how you like things done, if you're enjoying yourself, and will adjust seasonings and condiments based on whether he thinks you're worthy, or not. But I get ahead of myself.

I think a funny thing here is that I'm in this Japanese restaurant, speaking Japanese, and the entire staff take about 20 minutes to realize that I do the lingo. Granted, I had puppy white-boy next to me that needed some explanation ("No fork for you!"), I was amused that these people had such a hard time looking at me and hearing native Japanese coming out of my mouth. You'd think that in LA of all places, they'd be used to a not-so-Japanese looking guy speaking Japanese. The Oyaji (grill master) finally got it and asked "Sansei?" (third genereration Japanese immigrant), and I explained that I'm first generation (i.e. born and raised in Japan) but half. The service got MUCH better at this point.

The first skewer up was breast. It's actually the breast tender that in Japanese is called "sasami." Once the above exchange was completed and Oyaji understood that I was native, he tells me, "I'm doing this more Japanese style, medium-rare." Yes, I said that. Yes, chicken, yes, medium-rare. Actually it came out more raw than not. I trust a place like this, and if I actually were in Japan, I could have gotten the chicken completely raw. He tells expediter-boy to season our "breast" with wasabi and ginger. The first two bites with that sinus clearing blast of wasabi, the second two with the warmth of ginger. At this point, I'm in heaven. Expediter-boy still things I only speak English though...

The whole meal was really masterful, each piece perfectly seasoned and served with the perfect condiments. We had chicken balls (soft and salty and sinful), gizzard (crunchy and no offal taste whatsoever), quail eggs (yum), and a couple other pieces.

Finally, it gets through to expediter-boy that I'm Japanese, so he leans over the counter and asks me if there are any "specials" I'd like to have. I ask what's available, and go for neck meat (yippy-ki-yay! that was good), and cartilage (mmmmm, meaty... crunchy...).

All in all wonderful experience. I felt like I went back to Japan for a little while and I was so happy. I was also happy that puppy-white-boy that I went with didn't pull what some others around me have in the past... he not only let me enjoy the wonderful food, he tried everything end enjoyed it too.

Go, it's worth it!

Kokekokko
203 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo
(213) 687-0690

Happy Eating!

Rillettes, anyone?

Rillettes
[ree-YEHT, rih-LEHTS]
Meat, usually pork but also rabbit, goose, poultry, fish, etc., that is slowly cooked in seasoned fat and then pounded or pulverized (along with some of the fat) into a paste. This mixture is then packed in small pots, RAMEKINS or other containers and covered with a thin layer of fat. Rillettes can be stored for several weeks in the refrigerator providing the fatty seal is not broken. This mixture, resembling a smooth PÂTÉ, is served cold, usually as an appetizer spread on toast or bread.

~ © Copyright Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995 based on THE FOOD LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition, by Sharon Tyler Herbst.

Rillettes, lovely and homey, and always reminiscent of a picnic in the French countryside. Although I live in a neighborhood (Silverlake) of a city (Los Angeles) where there are plenty of gourmet purveyors out there that carry rillettes (let's see, Say Cheese, Silverlake Cheese, The Gourmet Market at the Alcove Cafe, among others), I decided that as a self-proclaimed foodie, I had to make them myself. Come on, it's not like I don't have half a dozen cookbooks that have them listed in them.

Well, my take was to look at a couple (Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook, and Brian Polcyn and Michel Ruhlman's Charcuterie) and to compose one for myself.

Right off the bat, I hit a snag... the recipes call for pork belly. Puppy-white-boy , my long-term house guest just got a job as a butcher at Virgin Grain High-End Food Emporium so I thought I'd drop him off for work and pick up a couple pounds.
Apparently, gourmet market or not, it's not likely I'm getting pork belly here. Fine, if that's not going to work, I'll Plan-B it.

Off to Glorious Filipino Mart that popped up in the basement of Eagle Rock Shopping Center a little while back. I know I can get it there, and for cheap at that. Sure enough, I walk in, and there's the pork belly staring right up at me. And at $1 per pound, I'm not about to complain. I pick up a pork shoulder roast for good measure, and off we go.


Rillettes:

Makes quite a bit, so have a lot of ramekins or containers to put them in!

2 lb Pork Belly
1 lb Pork Shoulder
4 Cups Water

Herbs (I made my bouquet garni out of thyme, oregano, sage, and bay leaf along with a handful of peppercorns)

Salt and Pepper to taste
1 TblS Veal Demi-Glace
Pork Fat, cut thin


Cube up the pork. Line the bottom of your slowcooker/Dutch oven with the pork. Cover with water. Add the herbs.

Cook on low for 6 hours.

Remove pork from the slow cooker and place in a large bowl. Carefully shred the meat with forks until no chunks remain. Salt and Pepper to taste. Add in demi-glace and some of the cooking liquid and mix until it holds together.

Separate out pork into ramekins, top with fat, cover with plastic wrap and leave in the fridge for 3 days.

If you've made a lot, you can freeze the extras. According to most all sources, rillettes will keep for about a month in the fridge as long as the fat covering is intact.

When you're ready, just bring the rillettes up to room temperature, and smear it on some bread and munch on. Add some cornichons and we're definitely in business!

As Anthony Bourdain put it in his cookbook:

Jesus, this dish is easy. Don't tell your friends. Let them think you're a genius, a master charcutier, while they're busy cooing and gaping.

Happy Cooking!

Craving Udon

Ok, food craving time again. This time it's udon. Although I tend to keep dried udon noodles as a pantry item in my house (it's not like it goes bad), I thought of trying something different and actually making my own noodles. I mean, how hard can combining FLOUR, SALT, and WATER be?

Well, this isn't difficult, but it is somewhat time-consuming. It's worth it though, since the end product has much more body than a dried out commercial one does.

Udon Noodles:

Serves 8-10

1 KG AP flour
450 g water
50 g salt

potato or corn starch for kneading

Equipment:

Large bowl
scale
plastic bag
large knife


Mix salt into water and stir until completely dissolved.

In a bowl combine water with flour. Mix thoroughly with hands and place the mixture in a sturdy plastic bag. remove as much air as possible from the bag and seal.

Step on the dough slowly using both feet (and entire body weight) in a circular manner (go around the dough clockwise or counter-clockwise slowly) until you have a disc that is about 1/8 inch thick.

Remove the dough from the bag, and fold as many times as possible, return to the bad and repeat the stepping process.

Collect the dough into a ball, and leave in the plastic bag to rest (1 hour in summer, 2-3 in winter)

Throw starch on a board and roll the dough with a rolling pin into a rectangle about 1/4 inch thick (adjust the thickness to taste). Throw starch on the dough and then fold the dough loosely twice lengthwise to a third and then cut thin and EVEN slices.

With hands that are starched, separate the individual noodles before cooking to prevent sticking. At this point, noodles can be saved for later use.


To cook:

Bring a large pot of water to boil, and boil the udon for 10-13 minutes depending on the thickness of the noodles. Rinse the noodles under cold water to remove the starch from the surface and then drain well.

Serve in a hot tsuyu-broth, cold with sesame sauce, or however you like it.

Happy Cooking!

Tomato-Garlic pasta from Capricciosa Tokyo

I woke up the other day with a hella craving for a dish that I last had probably 14 years ago. It was one of those things that friends and I would go eat when we were in high school and had no money. There was this great Italian chain in Tokyo called Capricciosa that served all their pasta dishes family style in giant portions. If I recall, their signature spaghetti with tomato-garlic sauce went for about 1700 yen ($16-ish) at the time and easily fed four hungry teenage boys, or two REALLY hungry boys. Add a cheese filled rice croquette with meat sauce and you're all set. But I'm getting ahead of myself here.

The dish, while by no means high brow or fancy, is just one of those guilty pleasures that's tangy, garlicky, spicy, and oh so yummy. It's actually seasoned well enough that you really don't need meat in it to make it good, although you most certainly could add some in there if you prefer a richer taste.

So, off to cyber-land to see if I could recreate the dish. After about 20 minutes of looking around, I found a couple Japanese blogs/postings that had different opinions on how it's made. Given that this is a "corporate recipe" of sorts, I did find out from a site where former employees of restaurants give out "forbidden recipes" that there were some interesting things that go into it. I'll go through the method -- it's easy and fun, and easily adaptable. Try it and see if you like it.

Capricciosa-style Tomato-Garlic Spaghetti

Yield: 4 Servings

8-10 Cloves of Garlic, thinly sliced
1 Medium Onion, diced
2 dried Japanese Chiles, sliced, OR 1 TBLS Crushed Red Pepper Flakes (adjust up or down depending on heat level desired)
1 ts Dried Oregano
3/4 TBLS Chicken Base or 2 Chicken Bouillon Cubes
1 ts MSG (this is a corporate chain recipe, what did you expect... omit if you're squeamish about this)
1 24-OZ Can Whole Peeled Whole Tomatoes
2 cups + extra Grated Parmesan Cheese
1/2 Cup Powdered Cofee Creamer (really)
3 TBLS Oil
Salt and Pepper to taste




Slice Garlic into thin slices and place into a cold pan over medium/medium-low heat along with Chiles/red pepper and oil. Carefully toast the slices until crunchy and golden brown, about 5-7 minutes. DO NOT BURN THEM. Remove and reserve on paper towels.



Saute onions in the same pan until translucent, then add the entire can of tomatoes with juices into the pan. Bring to a boil and add back in the garlic. Turn down the heat to low, add in the chicken base and MSG, then simmer for 20 minutes, making sure to not let the sauce burn. Once the tomatoes are cooked through, smash them into chunks with a mixing spoon, and then add the grated cheese and coffee creamer to the pot. Mix, cover and simmer for another 5-10 minutes until the tomatoes have broken down a bit further, and the cheese and creamer have melded with the sauce.

Serve on top of freshly boiled spaghetti (slightly thick spaghetti works really well here), top with more grated cheese and enjoy.

Happy cooking!

New Style Sashimi... my adaptation of a Nobu classic

So, I posted about my experience eating at Nobu, NYC. Like I said, some of the dishes were stellar. Since I couldn't find any of Daniel Boulud's books at the local B&N, I ended up bying Nobu, the Cookbook to see about trying different things.

I tried the Toro Tartare... good, but the sauce wasn't balanced without the caviar (I don't just have caviar lying around the house... duck fat maybe, but not caviar). The wasabi-pepper-soy sauce was a tad on the sweet and oily (read: butter) for the toro IMO.

The new style sashimi, on the other hand was rocking. For those of you unfamiliar with Nobu's cooking, new style sashimi is a dish where the sashimi is dressed with soy and citrus juice on a plate, then hot oil is poured over it effectively searing it. I first tried it with hamachi, which worked great. I love having a Japanese market within 3 miles of my house which sells things like hamachi and toro on a regular basis.

What I tried last night, however, was REAL good, and different. I got some fresh BISON tri-tip and used that for the new style sashimi. It was melt in my mouth and amazing. I blowtorched the outside of the bison meat block (cut into "saku" shape to be able to cut sashimi like slices out of it) to seal in the outside and to give it a slightly "charred" taste. Basically, at this point, if I sliced and served the meat, it would be a "Tataki" in Japan, a technique often used for Wagyu beef, and Bonito.

I went the extra step here, and put the seared bison saku in the freezer for 15 minutes to chill and firm up. Cut usuzukuri slices out of it (note to self: practice more Japanese knife skills -- I'm just not good enough it seems), season, and serve.

Here's my recipe.

New Style Sashimi of Bison

Yield: 2 servings

1/2 pound of Bison sirloin or filet

1 TBLS soy sauce
1 TBLS yuzu* juice

2 Cloves garlic, grated finely
1 TBLS toasted white Sesame seeds
Ginger, cut into hair-like threads
Chives, cut to 3/4 inch length

2 TBLS Fruity Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 ts Toasted Sesame Oil

* Yuzu can be substituted with lemon, although the fragrance won't be the same. If you can't get the fruit or the juice, you can also omit the soy here and use a commercial Yuzu Ponzu, available in your neighborhood Japanese/Asian market, or get dried Yuzu peel and sprinkle it over the dish with the lemon juice.

Sear Bison meat with a blow torch, or over an open flame just to slightly char the outside. Wrap in plastic and place in the freezer for 20 minutes.

Cut Bison into paper thin slices and arrange on serving plates. Top each slice with a dot of garlic paste, a few slices of ginger, a couple chives, sprinkle the sesame seeds all over. Just before service, pour the soy-citrus mixture over the plate to season it.

Heat the combined oils in a small pan until smoking, then quickly and carefully pour over the sliced meat. It should sizzle and smell mighty good.

Serve immediately.

Happy Cooking!

Speechless

As much as I'm often critical about food, I just had an experience where I was left speechless. Both my dining companion Jose (also notorious foodie and cook) and I had nothing to say and could only make strangely orgasmic noises. As Jose put it, "I finally understand the reason why the old woman said 'I'll have what she's having' in the diner scene in When Harry Met Sally.

The restaurant in question? Daniel in New York. Yes, Daniel that occupies the old Le Cirque space on E. 60th Street, and where the chef, Daniel Boulud, has proven to me that he is a God... And yes, he was in residence that night in the kitchen.

All I can say is, go. You won't be disappointed. It was the best meal of my life. Truly. This foodie now has another bar to compare everything else to.

And for once, the food was so good the inside of my brain just went fuzzy with static. Every scent, texture, flavor... overwhelming and just brilliant.

Daniel
60 E. 65th St.
New York, NY
Tel: 212.288.0033

Lunch at Central Michel Richard

DC had to redeem itself. My previous venture into a food adventure (read previous posting) just sucked, and I desperately needed to eat good food lovingly prepared (no offense Jose, I love McCormick & Schmick's, but eating 6 meals in a row there at the bar while you work does get old after a while). I've heard quite a bit about Chef Michel Richard, and thought I'd give his new ode to an American style bistro a go, since at this late juncture, I wasn't about to get a same-day reservation at his flagship restaurant Citronelle, in Georgetown.

I called up the restaurant and asked if reservations were required for lunch, and was told that they were highly recommended and that although they do allow walk-ins, that there's a chance we wouldn't get seated. When I asked the host-zilla what time during the lunch hour would be the best to try, she told me in not so many words to go do unspeakable things to myself. Well, no, she actually said, "well, it depends, sir, if you really want to eat here, please make a reservation." click

Hrm... I guess if the rumors of the chef being a class A A-hole were to be believed, i shouldn't be surprised that he has a host-zilla answering the phone. Nevermind. Opentable.com... oh, 1:30, that works. Click, click There, biyotch, I have a res, AND I get points towards a future discount at a restaurant of my choice. Take that!

I decided to take a female dining companion with me since Jose decided that work was more important (ok, that's not fair, I guess) whom I was told could "put it down." Alrighty, bring it on!

First impression after announcing myself to nondescript queeny host(ess)... Ok, nice space, airy, glass, light wood. Nice. Bar area looks too simple and haphazard, but ok.

Host(ess) comes to get us in a couple minutes and we're off to our table. Bread comes. Yum... crusty French rustic bread with softened butter. We look through the rather truncated lunch menu (damn, I can't have the Gougeres, or the 72-hour beef rib?) and decide on a couple appetizers to share, and on some entrees.

Asian Style Ahi Carpaccio: Lovely to look at. A plate of perfectly round paper-thin slices of raw ahi just lightly salted and topped with a dice of red onion and chives. Great taste. The fish was screamingly fresh, and the texture was heavenly. It wasn't over seasoned, and there was just the right amount of oil to lubricate the palate but not detract from the star which was the ahi. I thought the yellow slices on top were preserved lemon rind, but upon closer inspection, it was a julienne of Takuan, a Japanese daikon radish pickle that's slightly sweet. Ah... Asian, right? All in all, flawless. No complaints here.

Duck Rilletes and Faux-gras Terrine: The rilletes were to die for. Meaty, chunky, a little fatty. Definitely the stuff to make a French man cry. Paired with the Shiraz (yay, a Big Serving!!!) it was just breathtaking. The Faux-Gras was sinfully flavorful, and had the texture of whipped butter. Ok, maybe this place does deserve to have Cerberus guarding the gate.

I got the Crab Cake, and my companion opted for the Lamb Shank. Both were stellar. The crab cake was served over leeks that had the maionnaise worked in (fresh, not Kraft, of course), and was just chunks of crab meat barely bound and pan seared. The crunch came from etherial fried ribbons of carrot and beet. Mmmmm yum. Good crab cake.

The shank was definitely sous-vide cooked. It fell apart and was spoon tender but the meat was completely red, looking almost rare. Again, served with creamy cheesy polenta and fried onions with some rosemary-herb brown sauce... it was wonderful.

Entrees completed, my companion actually went back to finish the bit of appetizers that were left... and then ordered dessert. Ok, can I have that metabolism, please!

She got the signature dessert called the Kit Kat Bar. It comes out looking like a giant Kit Kat. It's a cocoa-dusted ganache served over a praline crust that once you eat, truly tastes like it's a Kit Kat bar, if one were served elevated into the stratosphere.

Damn, that was some good eating. If you can, go.

It's pricey, but not overly so. We ended up getting a bill for two glasses of wine, an app each, an entree each, dessert, and coffee for $120.

And I felt so bad for Jose having to work, that I brought him a quarter of the crab cake just so he could get a taste.

Central Michel Richard
1001 Pennsylvania Ave, NW Washington, DC
Tel:202.626.0015
www.centralmichelrichard.com

Happy Eating!

Disappointement at Les Halles DC

As you all can tell, I'm a foodie. I love to eat and cook and think and live food. As that kind of person, I LOVE Anthony Bourdain. I've read all his books, have the Les Halles Cookbook, and watch his shows on tee-vee whenever I can catch them. So, I was delighted to actually be in a city and have the time to venture into a Les Halles location.

Although I doubt that I set my expectations too high, what I ended up getting was one of the sigularly most disappointing dining experiences of my life.

I walked down to the restaurant on Pennsylvania Avenue from my friend's place on Thomas Circle, thinking I'd eat a couple courses as an early dinner. Since it was 5:30 PM, there was almost no one in the restaurant, which was fine by me. The server comes over, greets me (Bonjour!), and I order a glass of Medoc to start. (Un verre de medoc, s'il vous plait!) The glass comes, and I'm already apprehensive that I'm paying 12 bucks for what looks to be a tasting serving (literally three sips, max).

I look through the menu (like I didn't know it pretty much by heart by now), and decide to get the Mini Tartare de Boeuf, prepared tableside. Hey, I love my theatrics, leave me alone.

Another waitress comes over (Bonjour!) and asks me how I'd like the tartare prepared. I responded by telling her to make it a tad on the spicy side, but other than that, to make it the way she thought was the best. It took her about 7 minutes of mixing egg with various condiments (pepper, tabasco, worcestershire, etc) with the fresh beef before she scooped the tartare and arranged it oh so prettily on a plate with some toast points and a mesclun salad.

I take a bite anticipating a little corner of heaven... Ok, not bad. Competent, but definitely not nearly in the same league as the Kobe Tartare that I had at craftSteak in Vegas several months ago. Still, nice. Then I made the mistake of taking a bite of the salad... Ok, did the garde-manger fall asleep or what? The thing must have been salted at least three times. It was so salty that it burned my mouth. I gagged on it, and then lost the use of my palate for the next 10 minutes. So much for enjoying steak tartare. I'm a little pissed at this point, but I finish the tartare and leave the rest of the salad on the plate as a mini-protest for ruining my mini-tartare.

So, fine, I feel jipped on the wine, and can't taste anything yet. Let's refresh the palate by guzzling water, wine, then eating a piece of (stale) baguette. Ok, better.

I ended up getting the Mignons de Porc, since it is one of their signature dishes, and since I've actually made it from the cookbook. I wanted to see how mine stacked up to the original. Pork comes... it's tepid? Ok waitron. You've got three tables in an empty restaurant and I get cold-ish food? Well, whatever, I'll eat it anyway. Like I said, I've made this recipe... it starts out by making garlic confit (fancy way of saying slow roasted garlic) and then rubbing two pork tenderloins with it and leaving it overnight. Instead of confit, I got burnt. Basically, the pork and the sauce just tasted burnt. The sauce itself was fine (basic brown jus-glace-whatever type thing)but I couldn't get over the burnt garlic flavor. My rendition of the recipe was sublime by comparison. I gagged on the meat, ate a couple bites of the very boring mash (gluey!), and paid the bill.

All in all, the worst $50 I've ever spent on a bill short of being gouged for bad buurgers and fries at the Mouse Trap (sorry, don't want to get sued by a certain animation and entertainment company).

Les Halles DC... maybe it's time to close your doors, since ya ain't giving a sh*t about what you're serving. I got a drop of wine, a salt lick, and piece of charcoal for 50 bucks. I will never go back. Ok, I'll try the Park Avenue location, maybe.


Les Halles, DC
1201 Pennsylvania Ave.
Washington, DC
Tel: 202.347.6848
www.leshalles.net/washington.php

Happy Eating!

Nobu NYC

I'm in New York. A former business associate and friend of mine decided that he wanted to get together for dinner and suggested that we go eat Japanese. Originally, he had intended for us to go to Masa (hey, big spender), the new location of Masa Takayama, formerly of Ginza Sushi-ko in Beverly Hills. Since he got confused with my travel dates, he had to give up the reservation that he had there. Damn.

As a second best choice, we ended up at Nobu in TriBeCa. Now, any foodie worth anything has heard of Nobu Matsuhisa, the pioneer of nouvelle Japanese cuisine, who marries Peruvian accents into an otherwise truly Japanese meal. I walked in with my buddy with the orders to "do damage" and that "money wasn't an issue." A guy very much after my own heart when it comes to food!

We ordered cocktails (Citron rocks, lemon, for me), and the slaughter starts. We ordered three appetizers to start with and told the waitress to leave the menu since we had every intention of continuing to order as much as we could gorge ourselves on. Remember, money wasn't an issue?

First up, Kumamoto Oysters with two sauces. One is a ponzu type soy citrus number, while the other is a Maui onion salsa. The oysters are screaming fresh and go down so easy, it's almost sinful. Of the two sauces, I actually prefered the Maui onion salsa -- you could get the taste of the oyster better.

Next, Monkfish Liver Pate with Caviar. Talk about sinful. It's rich, sweet, and just melts in your mouth like... foie gras... wait, it might be better than foie gras. I must say, as much it was nice to see the caviar topping, it was completely unnecessary. My friend and I actually decided that the dish tasted better without the caviar. We actually wasted the caviar. I felt kinda guilty. But money wasn't an issue, right?

Third up, Toro Tartar. Unctuous, melty... great... wonderful fish, but nothing you couldn't get at any other high-caliber restaurant.

Well, we're off to a good start.

In the course of the next several hours (4 and a half to be exact), we ordered several of the cold dishes, a few of the hot entrees, and finished off with a variety of sushi.

There were amazing high notes such as the monkfish liver pate, and the New Style Sashimi of Copper River Sockeye Salmon, to which my friend said, "I think I may have wet myself a little bit," and the O-Toro Sushi that were truly transcendent. However, there were some other dishes that while not bad, just felt like "eh?"

Examples of these... The Lobster Salad. For one, I hate to admit, the only reason that either of us continued eating it after the first couple bites was the fact that we didn't feel comfortable wasting the lobster. There was just too much on the plate. And given that it was badly dressed (i.e. flavorless)and unbalanced (too much oil and hot spice without any acid)the dominant flavor was of the char-grilled shiitake mushrooms.

Another dish that was shiitake dominant was the Squid Pasta. Side note: ok, does Nobu use any other mushroom? I mean, there are plenty of great Japanese mushrooms like enoki, shimeji, ehringii, matsutake, nameko... the list goes on. Back to the squid, it was well cooked, just that the sauce was really dominating, and you really couldn't taste the squid in it.

The Hamachi Cheeks were really cooked the wrong way in my opinion. The whole head of the fish is served in this presentation, and while it was well flavored and well cooked in terms of doneness, it was cooked in the wrong medium. I could immediately tell that it was broiled over a gas flame. For something like this where the texture is important, you can't do that. Gas flame create water vapor as a byproduct which in essence steams the meat, giving it a mushy texture. Ask any Japanese connoisseur of Unagi, and they will tell you that they won't eat it somewhere that doesn't deal with charcoal. For a restaurant of the caliber of Nobu, this lack of attention to detail was disappointing, to say the least.

All in all though, it was a great meal. I just wish that it was consistently awe-inspiring like the few great dishes I mentioned above. Would I go back? Definitely, since I now know what not to order. Would I recommend it? Absolutely.

So wanna know how much we ended up spending? :D Let's just say it was really expensive.

Nobu NYC

105 Hudson St.
New York, NY
Tel: 212.219.0500
http://www.noburestaurants.com/newyork/index.html

Happy Eating!

That's a good burger!

I thought about the amount of money I spent for lunch at Tep(id) Thai the other day, and here's a case where I spent a bit more, but was MUCH more satisfied. A nice atmosphere, good food, and stellar service. That's what dining should be about.

Houston's. Yes, that chain restaurant. Well, upscale chain restaurant. I've been in a couple locations on both coasts, and I usually end up ordering the same thing here. The Hickory Burger. I admit that at $14 it's a bit on the pricey end for a mere burger (that's not Wagyu Beef, at least), but here's where the money is totally worth it. Freshly ground chuck, cooked to order, and served with lettuce, onions, a mound of grated cheddar cheese (tastes like Tillamook to me), and several slices of Canadian bacon on an eggy and fluffy bun and served with ethereally fried shoestring fries. Don't let me forget the hickory BBQ sauce... made on premises and to die for. Really.


As much as I like burgers in general, this is definitely one place where it's ok in my book to spend that kind of money. By all means, if you can't finish it in one sitting, take it home and reheat it. You'll be glad you did. In my book, this is so far the best upscale burger there is.

Granted, I haven't tried the $32 burger that Daniel Boulud serves at Bistro db... yes, I would have to try a burger that's stuffed with braised ribs and topped with foie gras and black trumpets. I'm going to NYC soon, so I'll let everyone know if I get the chance to try this one.



Back to Houston's. The other dish I tried was their oak grilled artichoke appetizer. Three rather large artichoke halves were brought out, slightly charred around the edges and smelling delicious. The remoulade/aioli that it came with was pretty good too. A little on the thick side, but it didn't overpower the artichokes too much. Good thing that they were grilled to make them more assertive. The only thing here is that it's a bit messy and labor intensive to eat the artichokes. You really to have to eat them leaf by leaf and by hand, scraping the bit of flesh off with your teeth, until you finally get to the heart. Still, I love it, and the tactile aspect of this is wonderful.

All in all, with a couple beers (Sierra Nevada), an appetizer and two burger orders, I won't say that it was cheap at $70 (with tip), but it was definitely worth it. I left with half of my burger for later, and feeling ever so much happier that I got to relax and just have some simple, good, food.

Houston's Century City

10250 Santa Monica Blvd.
Space D
Los Angeles, CA
Tel: 310.557.1285
www.hillstone.com

Happy Eating!

Tep(id) Thai

I received a flier a while back from Tep Thai in Glendale. Not only was it gorgeously designed, it showcased the beautiful renovation that they had gone through.

That should have been my red flag right there. I was drawn to the design of the direct mail piece and my subsequent viewing of the web site (www.tepthai.com), which really didn't showcase images of food. I should have been able to guess by this alone that it was going to be another one of those "love the space... but something's missing" experiences. But their tagline is "Angelic Cuisine!" It had to be good, right?

Here's to guinea pigging... I took my friend who likes Thai food with me for lunch. He had helped me with some things related to my move, so I thought the least I could do was buy lunch. We parked in the lot right next door, and walked in. Little late for lunch, so we were seated immediately. The space is gorgeous. Simple, yet clean, modern, but retaining a sense of warmth. Kudos to whoever designed the interior here. I really was getting excited. The waitress was the standard young pretty Thai who was polite to a fault. No complaints there. I ordered a Thai iced tea, and put in an order of Angel Wings (again, it's "Angelic Cuisine," right?) and an order of Tom Yum Koong to start.

Angel Wings -- These are breaded and fried chicken wings that are stuffed with pork, prawns, cellophane noodles, etc. Normally very flavorful and satisfying. I took my first bite here and thought that the breading was a little heavy handed (i.e. very thick) and that the filling was next to tasteless. The sauce that came with it was a very sweet glaze that didn't add to anything. I was able to finally enjoy this dish once I figured out that it only had a flavor other than sweet if I added the garlic chili paste that sat on the table. While not bad, nothing to rave about here.

Tom Yum Koong -- Hot and Sour Soup with Shrimp. This was barely palatable. There was way too much lemongrass and tamarind that made you think you were drinking a warm cup of Sour Patch Kids gummy treats without the sweet afterwards. Not spicy enough, and the shrimp was rubbery. Pass on this one unless you like the idea of drinking a citrusy warm vinegar.

After the first couple appetizers, I was getting over the lovely decor. At the point in which there are plenty of other Thai restaurants in the neighborhood that are far cheaper, the fact that it's prettier just stopped cutting it for me. Onto main courses.

My friend ordered the Thai BBQ Pork. While it wasn't inspired, it was definitely the best thing ordered so far. The meat was well flavored and moist, but again, there was nothing special about it. In fact, I bet that the Thai takeout two doors down from Tep Thai does it better, with a bigger portion for half the price.

Pad Thai -- This is definitely a Thai restaurant staple... and I've had quite a few variations thereof. I like this dish, there's a bit of everything here from starchy to crunchy to sweet to fresh to pungent. And I like the fact that after the app and soup we had earlier, I wanted something a little less heavy in the protein department. Mistake. The noodles were gummy from being overcooked, and the flavoring seemed like the person who cooked it was following a cookbook for the first time. The various components just didn't gel together, and it was really more of a blob of a dish to me. For a place that professes to serve "Angelic Cuisine," this dish made me want to tell them to replace the "Angelic" with "Amateur." In all honesty, I've had some do it yourself instant Pad Thais that were far superior to this.

All in all, this wasn't a great experience. I'm not going to say that it's not worth going to, but I think the flavoring and presentation of the dishes really caters more to an American palate than an authentic Thai one. If you're looking to try Thai food for the first time, this might be the kind of place that will make you interested. Most of the stuff is bland and non-threatening. If you're into Thai or SE Asian cuisine at all, you'll feel like I did after picking up the $50 lunch tab with no alcohol for two... You just paid for pretty.

Tep Thai

209 Wilson Ave.
Glendale, CA
818.246.0380
www.tepthai.com

Happy Eating!