Monday, May 08, 2006

Being a mutt and learning to cook from comic books.

My 14 year-old stepdaughter was really curious about how I learned to cook other day so I told her the story.

The quick version of the beginning of my culinary adventures is that I've always been fascinated by food and cooking. I remember as far back as when I was four years old burning myself on a toaster oven while melting dill harvarti cheese on a cinnamon-raisin muffin (yum). I guess I was lucky to have had parents who were willing to let me do my thing in the kitchen unsupervised (for the most part), and that I wasn't too accident prone a kid.

One of the reasons I'm probably inclined to experiment as much as I do is because I'm culturally and racially a mutt of the worst kind. My mom is French and Vietnamese and grew up in Japan, and my dad is Japanese and White American. That means that the cooking Mom did was a mixture of all those cultures. One day we'd have coq au vin, and the next cha gio (Vietnamese spring rolls), next soba noodles and tempura, etc. Even at an early age, there was a mixture of cuisines around me. Add to that the fact that I've had two step-dads of differing cultures (the first was Venezuelan, the second Swiss), and have lived at one point or another on all six inhabitable continents give rise to quite an experience with differing cultures. Without really knowing it, I was getting a first rate culinary education while growing up, and was thinking "fusion" without knowing it. I could fend for myself even as a kid in the kitchen, so I naturally took what I could get in whatever country I was in, and mixing it up with things I already knew. Naturally, as I got older and more sophisticated (ahem), so did my creations. I relied less and less on store-bought prepackaged ingredients (which have their place in the home kitchen), and started learning more proper technique... although I still have a long ways to go.

There actually is another reason/influence on how I learned how to cook. This one's the one that gets me some raised brows from my friends here in the US. I learned from reading comic books. Well, manga to be exact. See, around the time I was in fifth grade, this anime/manga series called "Mr. Ajikko" (translates into something like "Mr. Tasty) came out that was about this kid who helped his single mom run their little teishokuya (Japanese for diner). He's really creative and is this genius with food. Naturally, in this fictitious food obsessed world, he gets discovered by the "King of Taste" and is put up against a variety of culinary heros and villains in competitions... I truly believe that Iron Chef got its idea from this and other series like it. The interesting thing is that not only did this series exist, but it did well enough to actually become a hit with the 8-14 year old demographic. I fell in love with it and collected all the books and tried making some of the outlandish creations that were featured in it. I remember the first one that I made -- short spaghetti wrapped with thinly sliced eggplant in a bolognese sauce. I was maybe 10 at the time.

Once I got back from France to Tokyo in my mid teens to start 11th grade, I discovered the other culinary comic that greatly influenced me: "Oishimbo." To be honest, it wasn't a new series. It had already been running a number of years, and is STILL ongoing as a weekly publication. The basis of the series is a couple of newspaper reporters working in the culture section are traveling around Japan and the world looking for the "Ultimate Menu." Another newspaper company enlists the help of the male protagonist's estranged father who is the ultimate food authority and gourmet in Japan and strives to create their own version called "The Unsurpassable Menu." Both sided duke it out, yadda, yadda, yadda. The premise aside, the writers REALLY research good food and present it in an approachable manner from the history of the base ingredients to explaining the intricate details of the preparation. The series is such a cult hit that recipe books featuring some of the recipes have come out and online communities discussing the episodes and food exist in cyberspace. I must admit, I own a number of volumes (there are over 80 now and they're still being released) and I have the cookbook.

I got ideas on how things went together from these manga, and also learned technique since the cooking portions of them were really detailed and precise. The rest is just doing things over and over. I'm not saying that I can turn out a perfect "insert something difficult here" all the time, but I'm getting better and better. The only thing I'd like to add here is that the first time I had my own kitchen (right out of college) I found a book that really helped me find a way to put together things in the "right" way and how to think about food from a more thematic or ingredient based point of view. "Culinary Artistry" is a great book, and I'll write about it in another post, but it has oodles of information on flavor combinations (albeit from a very euro-american standpoint), and menu planning. I can't think of the number of times I've picked it up to come up with an idea of something to do with an ingredient.

Bottom line here is I've always been cooking, and I've always been experimenting for all the reasons above. Whether its finding a use for Japanese dashi stock in a risotto (works great for a wild mushroom risotto), or cooking a boeuf bouguignonne in a chinese clay pot, I'm always trying something new.

Happy cooking!

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